HELLO, FELLOW BJD ENTHUSIASTS, MOD ENTHUSIASTS, AND FOLLOWERS.
Thinking about giving your pretty new, yet sadly eyebrow-less doll, a fresh new face up?
Before picking up that paint brush, colored pencil, or other oil-free tool of choice, please remember to apply one to two generous coats of sealant on your doll’s head or whatever body part you’re planning on painting.
Now then, before you pick up whatever lacquer happens to be lying about your house or worktable, please stop. And put that down. Right. Now. >:|
There are a few things you must know beforehand. First, RESPIRATORY SAFETY. Do NOT half-ass this. Get a respirator. That’s a fancy term for gas mask. Not a flimsy little paper dust mask, an actual gas mask/respirator.
See, nice and safe. We don’t want your throats bleeding or your lungs collapsing, now, do we? Sealants are TOXIC, and I believe you’ll be far more content in shelling out $35 for a respirator than you will be with a $500 hospital bill. This is the most useful tool not just for face up artists, but for modders as well. RESIN AND RESIN DUST IS ALSO TOXIC. I’m sorry you can’t go around licking your resin dollies like a lollipop, it’s just not safe. And also a little creepy.
Now that you have your respirator, what sealant on you using? … Whoa, what, none? The hell is wrong with you.
If you’re doing a face up or other customization (EG: tattoos, etc) USE SEALANT. ALWAYS. Oh, don’t know what sealant to use? That’s a different matter. I personally recommend one of the two most popular sealants that I know of:
^— Mr. Super Clear (MSC)^—- Testors Dullcote
Another option, though less popular, is Zoukeimura Finishing Powder. (Abbreviated “ZM”).
DON’T MIX SEALANTS. Out of Testors but have MSC laying around? Well, if you want flaking or other side effects, go ahead, but I don’t recommend it. ***(I digress when saying this: I have heard of people using a new coat of either/or on factory default face ups to reseal them(since 90% of the time you can’t be certain what brand the company used), though personally when applying your own, it’s usually best to stick with one).***
ALWAYS get FLAT lacquers. Otherwise your doll’s head or parts will be SHINY and have a greasy look to them. Which is icky, even if your doll’s character is supposed to be a greasy-looking nerd.
There are many other hobby stores (online or in stores themselves, if you’re lucky) that sell MSC, don’t be afraid to ask your local hobby stores if they carry it. Though it’s usually smaller stores that’ll be more likely to carry it than chain stores like Hobby Lobby or JoAnn Fabrics.
Testors can be found at PlaJapan and Volks sites, much like MSC. I have not used Testors personally, though have seen results of it. Testors can be found at large hobby stores, so it is treated as a “cheaper” or more readily available version of MSC. Home Depot and Hobby Lobby have be known to carry it.
As for ZM Powder, the best place to get that is (again) PlaJapan or Volks. ZM Powder’s results are a slightly smoother surface than the results of MSC. I’ve seen a lot of professional face up artists use this because of the smoother results, though it is not as easy to obtain as the others.
The biggest brand of sealant to NOT EVER USE is: Krylon. DO NOT USE KYRLON. D: I have seen countless people use it and claim “nothing bad happens” BUT IT DOES.
USING THE SEALANTS.
Have we all ready covered the WELL-VENTILATED AREA? From this, it’s obvious to deduce that it’s best to spray your pieces OUTSIDE with your respirator safely secured over your precious face.
Shake your can of sealant well. This means you can hear that little marble-thingy (yes, I am so pro with my pro terms) flow smoothly through the can. Personally I take a cup of warm water and let the sealant soak for about two to five minutes while I get my pieces ready. It helps loosen the sealant in the can so you can get the best results (not to mention able to shake about every ounce of sealant from the can).
Hold the sealant about 30cm away from your piece, and press down on the sealant. Don’t slam on it, but do press down enough to you can get an even coat.
Let dry completely (usually takes about five minutes for the first coat, and an added two minutes for each coat after that) and add one to two more coats and that will complete your first layer.
Once the piece is COMPLETELY DRY (not SORTA DRY or DAMP) you’re ready to start customizing.
And if you had your respirator on, your lungs are now as safe as your doll!
I can’t stress enough the importance of using a good sealant or the importance of protecting yourself during the process.
Next up will be MATERIALS, FACE UP REMOVAL, and SEAM SANDING yaaayyy. :D!
(Will edit with further links, bahh, I’m so unorganized…)
Hope you enjoyed this and learned the importance of all this stuff I’ve been babbling about. c:
So get dolling, and I’ll see you all next time~
i.e. There are a lot of monster high repaints going on (probably where I will start), but also other dolls in similar materials. The soft head vs. the hard body - do you suggest different paints for these different areas?
And, do you always suggest putting sealant on before AND after any custom paint application?
I was actually in the middle of writing up a ~materials~ post to go along with our recent “sealant” post when I got this! x)
But I’ll still answer your questions, though keep an eye out for that post. ;D
Always, always use acrylic or watercolor paints! Never oil-based paints! The oils will stain the crap out of your surface, even if it’s sealed. This is the same for pastels. Always use chalk or soft pastels.
For surfaces: the hard bodies of Monster Highs tend to take to acrylics paints much easier than the soft heads. The only real thing you should be concerned about when dealing with different surfaces is the type of sealant.
MSC (Mr. Super Clear) is a resin-based sealant and can harm vinyl. I haven’t heard any huge horror stories, but you may want to switch over and use Testors Dullcote when working with Monster High dolls or other vinyl/plastic customization.
You may also try the product/brand “Mod Podge.” (For plastic/vinyl only!) You apply it more like a paint, but it’s still a very nice sealant when working with paints on plastic. It goes on white/translucent and dries clear. I find it best to use this rather than sprays when applying your final touches to your work. It makes it so the paints won’t be all tacky. (I don’t recommend using this as a base sealer: mod podge doesn’t take pastels very well if you wish to add some blush.)
And yes, I do recommend sealing before and after paint applications! It’ll protect your work and, best of all, won’t leave it looking shiny or (as I mentioned above) tacky feeling. This is slightly just preference related, but even if you intend your repaint to be a permanent thing(regarding Monster High or other doll repaints), I still recommend sealing before. It’s not *as* necessary, but should you later decide to remove it, there’s a chance the acrylic will leave faint stains on your doll.
I know this from experience when working with My Little Pony customizing… I turned a blue pony orange. OTL (Full body repaints I don’t recommend! LOL)
So *basically* what you should take from this is just avoid oil-based products like a greasy plague and you should be good. ;)
Hope this helps in the slightest! ;u;
what if magic was real but it was treated the way music is now with different genres and shit like “oh youre still into conjuring? thats cool I guess. recently ive been getting into third-wave post-necromancy, it’s some pretty heavy stuff”
WHAT IS THIS IT LOOKS LIKE PORTAL TO ANOTHER WORLD
so in sum:
- beyonce drops an album with no fucking warning and no promotions
- laughing in the face of lady gaga’s art pop expenses
- on the night lorde drops a “secret single”
- on taylor swift’s birthday
- when lupe fiasco had planned to drop his album
- thereby fucking up everyone’s end of the year lists especially rolling stones magazine
- on friday the 13th because fuck your illuminati bullshit
y’all literally could never
its really fucking cool that i can watch english subbed anime like literally the same day its released in japan. people who sub anime dont get enough respect. thank you anime subbers.
Dangan Ronpa chapter 1 screenshots in PSV resolution!
I’ve been taking screenshots of the more significant parts of chapter 1 as I went along, including the event pictures and the climax inference from chapter 1 trial. Needless to say, heavy spoilers for Dangan Ronpa chapter 1.
You can get the screenshots here. Feel free to use them in edits/decorating your tumblr theme/icons/whatever. I’m afraid the screenshots aren’t really in any order though…
I do love it when I instinctively dislike a person then find out later I indeed had valid reasons.
tastes like u only sweeter
Jewels I found while studying pre Middle Age art history:
Confused “Why do I have two hands?”
transparent Rin coming to take you on a date ᕙ(ಠ∀ಠ)ᕗ
★ a huge, SOURCED everything theme-related downloadable pack! ★
since i have something like 9000 files in my themes stuff folder i decided to share them with everyone as a early christmas present or smt like that uwu
likes/reblogs are appreciated if you download this but do as you feel ok
PLEASE DON’T RE-UPLOAD OR POST ONLINE THE ENTIRE PACK FOR ANY REASON.
most artists don’t allow this kind of thing, but allow personal collection. that’s why what i decided to share with you all shall stay offline after you have downloaded it.
if you don’t want your art to be in this pack, please just tell me, i’ll remove it immediately and update the download link!
the pack (181 MB) includes (approximately):
- 570 bgs, both tiled and maximized!
- 329 buttons, some of them are also empty and free to use.
- 107 cursors
- 179 dividers
- 187 lace banners
- 2056 medium pixels, i sourced as many as i could find!
- 1083 sidebar pixels, just a few are unsourced.
- 142 tiny pixels for permalinks
- 402 favicons
- 30 message pixels
- 64 music pixels
- the complete sanscons icons pack by p.j. onori
- 338 pixel sets
- 316 transparent pictures
- and theres a lot of christmas stuff too!!
★ you can download the pack HERE
please note that the pack contains the following triggers/phobias/spoilers:
- eye horror/scopophobia
- nsfw/nsfw ish/nudity
- sdr2 spoilers
- body horror/decapitation/guro
- pictures of open sea
even if most are only pixels and are very soft/abstract, you can never know.
★ you can download a trigger-free pack HERE
unless it’s related to your art, please contact me here if you have any questions. anonymous questions are allowed, links show up normally and it will not clog up my dashboard uvu
HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS!! ☆